COZINESS: Li Dongtian, sitting in his New York City restaurant on June 13, talks about his experience abroad (ERIC WONG)

In May 1997, the designer made his first trip to Yunnan Province. Because of the altitude, it was slow-going, offering Li plenty of time to observe the rosy tinted cheeks of local passersby. Back in Beijing, the stylist lost no time in recreating the look using mascara, a move that eventually shot him to fame.

"Many people asked where my idea came from. I answered that I was inspired by passersby," Li said. "It's a pity that people these days are often too busy to observe the beauty around them."

Despite his success, the designer is always on the lookout for the next boundary to break.

According to Li, current designers are reviving styles popular during the 1920s and 1950s, including vintage collars and double-breasted suits, alongside more abrasive ideas such as punk.

"At present, mixing styles is very popular. As a result, you can now find classic, elegant, radical and free elements all in one design," he explained.

Road to fame

At 22, Li rose to fame as the chief stylist for the 1994 Chinese film Hong Fen. Shunning the sudden attention, he decided to continue his visual art studies in the United States.

"Looking back on it now, my decision was absolutely right. If I did not go to the United States, I would not be where I am today," he said. "The platform is different, so the view is different."

In 1998, Li travelled to New York from San Francisco, where he studied and attended fashion shows. To the designer, the latter experience proved to be more beneficial than his actual course work.

Keen on experimenting, Li still remembers the first cup of black coffee made him feel sick Stateside.

"I always want to try new things, but often have to pay the price for my curiosity," he joked.

Absorbing as much as he can during his time spent abroad, the stylist gradually managed to establish a unique style of his own.

"The most terrible thing for an artist is the lack of inspiration," Li explained. "On the whole, I am open to new ideas. I also have my own principles. The point is how to strike a balance between the old and new."

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