SO NARROW: A typical small lane in Hongjiang (ZHAO NA)

It is difficult to imagine that more than 1,000 years ago a vibrant, prosperous commercial center thrived in the majestic mountains in the southwest of Hunan Province in south China.

Today the ancient town of Hongjiang is attracting a lot of attention as people come to ponder its past and imagine the bustling energy of its glory days.

Ancient architecture

Entering the small town and strolling along the narrow polished cobblestone roads, past what were shops and trading halls in the past, it seems the echoes of merchants hawking their wares still reverberate in the cool air.

Visitors also can't help being impressed by the ancient architecture of the town, which features the typical characteristics of structures of the Ming and Qing dynasties of China (1368-1911).

All the buildings in Hongjiang are covered in gray tiles and surrounded by high white walls. Each complex includes two or three-story wooden buildings with a courtyard in the center. The windows frames are exquisitely carved with traditional Chinese designs, showing the wealth and status of their owners. Walking along the alleys, visitors can marvel at the door plaques, stone carvings, intricate gate couplets, and inscriptions hundreds of years old.

All these buildings are cleverly built in the best parts of town according to the terrain of the area-some were built on the mountainside, some in a long alleyway and some along the bank of a river. Experts have confirmed that Hongjiang is the oldest, largest and best preserved ancient commercial city in southwest China.

Slow-paced lifestyle

According to historical records, Hongjiang's most prosperous period was during the reign of Emperor Kangxi (1661-1722) of Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) to the end of the dynasty and some years beyond, although it had already gained some importance in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). During the reign of Emperor Kangxi, businessmen from every corner of China traveled to Hongjiang with dreams to be successful there. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, the population of the town was 50,000.

Today the old buildings are still home to more than 6,000 residents. Visitors from the big cities will quickly notice the slow, simple lifestyle in Hongjiang, something many stressed out urbanites are hankering after. Old and young can be seen leisurely playing mah-jong, a traditional game in China, at all hours of the day. Along with the pace of life, the furniture in the houses is very simple, mainly wooden tables or chairs that look like they have served many generations. The 21st century seems to be a world away in Hongjiang.

"For those who are living in the hustle and bustle of any metropolis, taking a stroll along the zigzag stone-paved lanes may bring back the feeling of tranquility and peace," said Liu Hongyi, a professor at the Huaihua University who has paid a lot of attention to the research of the cultural heritage of Huaihua, a city that Hongjiang is affiliated with. The architecture, the slow-paced life of the local people and the surrounding green hills and clear waters are all factors attracting outsiders, he added.

Liu said that due to hasty urbanization, many ancient buildings have given way to modern-looking skyscrapers in the larger cities. Thus the existence of some 300,000 square meters of ancient architecture and the many former business establishments of Hongjiang are "the living fossils" that give people a peek at China's early days of capitalism.

Commercial hub

But how did such an affluent commercial town come to be situated in a remote mountainous area? Historians say it is because businessmen in the past found Hongjiang's water transport system very convenient. It is said that the Yuanjiang River, one of the major rivers that run past the town, is the prime water route connecting the Yangtze and Zhujiang Rivers, two very important water systems in south China.

Records show that in the past, the big tradable commodities of southwestern China, such as tobacco, timber and tung oil, would be shipped to Hongjiang, processed there and finally transported in bigger ships along the Yuanjiang and Yangtze rivers to different ports in central and eastern China. At the same time, merchants would transport silk, cloth, seafood and other merchandise for daily use from these ports to Hongjiang for onward sale in southwestern areas. According to the elders in Hongjiang, there were more than 1,000 stevedores in the city in the past, operating from close to 50 docks. Today most of these docks lie derelict.

Because of the high trade volumes, Hongjiang gradually developed into a major transportation and financial hub. The money turnover at that time was second only to Changsha, capital city of Hunan Province.

A recent archeological discovery in Hongjiang proves the wealth of the businessmen at that time. A 2 x 5 square meter basement for storing cash of a bank in the past was found, still containing some Qing Dynasty coins.

"In the Qing Dynasty and the years after that, trade and commerce in Hongjiang was very developed and there were a good number of merchant princes in the town. Most banks had to have enough cash available for daily use. The discovery of this cash-storing basement proves that Hongjiang was already a thriving commercial center at that time," said Cai Haijun, a researcher for the culture of Hongjiang ancient town.

Fortune seekers

Most businessmen came to Hongjiang with empty pockets and big dreams. But, in less than 10 years, many had found success. One of the major reasons that contributed to this rapid success is the establishment of trade associations. Businessmen from the same province or dealing in the same commodities would share information and discuss various business problems to seek greater business opportunities. These trade associations were the beginning of business groups in ancient China.

Because of the large number of businessmen from other provinces, Hongjiang became a city of immigrants. All these immigrants not only brought success, but also the colorful cultures from around the country. The commercial prosperity also boosted the development of other fields. According to the Hunan Academy of Tourism, in the past there were 23 banks, 17 newspaper offices, 47 opera theaters or stages and 34 schools in Hongjiang. The town also had the earliest tax office in China.

Besides this, religious culture in Hongjiang also flourished. Buddhism, Taoism and Christianity had a history of over 400 years there, and today the temples and churches are still in service.

"The religious culture and the business philosophy developed over many years, and the local operas and other historical and cultural heritages of Hongjiang are all big attractions of the ancient town today. I am sure, by improving its catering facilities and transportation, the ancient town will draw more and more visitors who are curious about the legendary past of this secluded town," said Professor Liu.