It had to happen. Fast food has crept into every facet of life in China, but one area of culinary delight was thought too sacred to tamper with. The time-honored cooking process of Peking roast duck, the dish people cross oceans for, has finally succumbed to modernity.

Quanjude, Beijing's most famous Peking roast duck brand, has been cooking the juicy birds hung on a pole over a wood fire since 1864. But soon after the company's listing on the stock market last November, they dropped a bombshell on their customers by announcing that the ducks would in future be roasted in electric ovens. The move, according to the Quanjude Group, owner of the Quanjude brand, is expected to simplify and standardize the duck roasting process and therefore help the restaurant chain accelerate its business expansion nationwide.

Quanjude has been turning out more than 5 million of its roast ducks each year using the traditional cooking method, originally adopted in the royal kitchens of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). The forthcoming change triggered opposition from the majority of Quanjude's roast duck customers.

A survey carried out by China Youth Daily and sina.com shows that among 3,066 respondents, 76.8 percent are opposed to electric ovens because they believe this will damage the traditional cultural significance of the brand and 62.8 percent are opposed to the new method because of the fear that Quanjude roast ducks might become another KFC.

Although Quanjude Group argues that despite changing its cooking methods, it will try to keep the authentic flavor of its ducks by spraying them with natural fruit juice before roasting, many customers still believe that electric ovens will remove the dish's authenticity and have proposed that the price for electric oven roasted ducks be reduced. An ordinary Peking roast duck currently sells for 38 yuan-58 yuan (about $5-$8), while a Quanjude duck goes for 198 yuan (about $28).

The march of progress

Miao Huangjia (www.xici.net): On hearing that the famous old brand Quanjude is to adopt electric ovens in roasting ducks, replacing the traditional wood fire roasting method, many people begin to feel worried about the reputed old brand. They are worried not only about the good taste, but also the vanishing old tradition.

This is a conservative and unnecessary worry. In the past years, like many other old brands, Quanjude has managed to overcome all kinds of difficulties and competition by keeping up with its customers' needs while still undergoing changes. It has not stuck to old traditions.

Due to the rapid pace of life, people's demand for the catering industry is rising too. However, at present, to roast a duck will take one and a half hours, so customers who have money but no time won't wait. Electric ovens, however, will help to change this situation. Some believe that, without the traditional roasting technique, Quanjude is no longer Quanjude. In this logic, today's Quanjude is different from the one 100 years ago, as today's tools are different from the tools and materials used at that time.

Wang Yuchu (Workers' Daily): Some argue that, the traditional roasting method is part of the Quanjude culture, so it should be maintained. If electric ovens were used to roast ducks, they said that the inbred cultural content of the brand would be seriously affected.

As for the so-called cultural significance of Quanjude roast ducks, it's unknown to me. I can't help asking: Are you eating ducks or the so-called duck culture in them?

Recent years have seen traditional customs and techniques gain more attention than ever before. It's true that traditional culture should be handed down, but the modern catering method adheres more to scientific standards and can better meet the market's demand. However, some traditional techniques are restraining the promotion of such a delicious dish as Peking roast ducks.

Good factors in traditional catering should be preserved, but not on the basis of denying technical innovation.

Qing Shui (www.sohu.com): Recently, many Chinese businesses are trying to learn from foreign fast food chains, although few succeeded. The major reason is that Chinese cooking depends too much on cooks' skill and experience, and thus can't always keep the same flavor or mass-produce food, which makes the chain operation impossible.

Some argue that electric ovens will damage the original flavor of Quanjude ducks, and remove the pleasant aroma of those roasted in wood fires. But nothing will remain unchanged forever. So how do people know that electric oven roasted ducks are no match for wood fire roast ducks? It's quite possible that in several years, more and more people will become used to electric oven roasted ducks.

To inherit traditional culture is not to keep it untouched. If it is kept as it has always been, this tradition will not last long. Thus, there is nothing wrong for Quanjude to adopt a new technique.

Duan Fugen (National Business Daily): From the perspective of environmental protection, Quanjude needs to adopt the electric oven method, as the traditional roasting method will consume quite a lot of wood every year. Given that China is not rich in wood resources, it seems improper to keep this traditional method forever. According to the Quanjude Group, although there are some differences in flavor between ducks roasted in traditional wood fire and electric ovens, average customers won't know the differences.

As for whether electric ovens will damage the Quanjude culture, it need to be remembered that the culture of Quanjude roast ducks do not cover the wood fire only, but the sweet paste and scallion shards, along with the pancake, as well as unique cooking procedure are all part of a unique culture. Even if the wood fire is not used, other components can also help to preserve the characteristics of Quanjude.

Don't mess with tradition

Ye Zhijun (www.people.com.cn): Modern techniques will not affect the quality of Quanjude roast ducks, this is just an assumption.

Actually, it is the lack of a national consensus on how to inherit and develop traditional culture, including time-honored cooking techniques, that motivated the Quanjude Group's controversial decision on replacing its traditional method with the so-called modern way of roasting ducks.

In terms of the heritage and development of tradition, maybe the French know better than us. When the EU announced that oak chips were allowed be added to wine brewing, France decided to prevent oak chips from being added to the brewing of high-quality wine.

In some cases, certain people are closer to a certain tradition than the rest of society, while in most cases, the tradition belongs to the whole nation, with no specific ownership. Thus, when it comes to Quanjude, if the traditional roasting technique is to be changed, customers may not accept it openly.

Song Guifang (www.scol.com.cn): Whether to replace the traditional roasting technique with the modern method is Quanjude Group's private affair, but customers' strong interest in this dish reflects their concern for the time-honored brand. Quanjude roast ducks are unique in its traditional cooking method and authentic flavor. Therefore, the company has an irreplaceable place in customers' heart. Quanjude is not simply a symbol of Peking roast ducks, but also of traditional culture. In this sense, if this roast duck producer dares to sell ducks cooked in modern electric ovens at such a high price as 198 yuan, customers might well complain to the Consumers' Association.

Why are Quanjude roast ducks so expensive compared to ordinary roast ducks? Because they are produced in the traditional way, totally different from the modern cooking technique, which is able to roast ducks by the hundreds in double quick time. The change of cooking technique will inevitably lead to a change in the duck flavor--the key is, this change means to lower production costs and make the roasting process less complicated, going against the lean production theory of the modern market economy.

Wang Li (www.ycwb.com): From one perspective, the process of roasting ducks in a non-smoky and open oven is part of China's traditional culture. Its unique way of roasting ducks is a kind of irreplaceable custom.

If Quanjude is to transform its roast ducks into something like KFC or McDonald's, that is, fast food-style roast ducks, Quanjude is no different from other electric oven operators. Its popularity is bound to drop among customers.

It is always easier to destroy a brand than to build one. Quanjude is trying to make its brand more popular. But, despite its advanced business concept, if the taste changes, the brand is likely to lose a large number of customers who come to Quanjude because of the traditional taste. This would of course mean a big loss to this famous brand.

Hao Hongjun (Liaoning Evening News): In 2006, Quanjude roast ducks were listed among the first candidates for municipal-level intangible cultural heritage items of Beijing. As we know, in the traditional way, the ducks are roasted in an open oven, using non-smoky hardwood fuel. It is this special cooking method that makes Quanjude roast ducks unique and attractive. If the traditional open ovens are to be replaced by electric ovens, it's equal to replacing ducks with chicken or any other poultry meat.

Indeed, in the short term, electric ovens will help to save labor and time and the productivity will rise. Undoubtedly, this will meet the rising market demand for roast ducks, but Quanjude ducks are not common ducks. The techniques and process of making Quanjude roast ducks is a historical heritage full of cultural significance, so it will be a big pity if the emphasis on economic profits outweigh traditional culture.