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UPDATED: December 19, 2011 NO. 51 DECEMBER 22, 2011
Modeling the World
Chinese models still have a long way to go
By YIN PUMIN
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ASIAN DOLL: Chinese model Sun Feifei walks the runway at the Chanel Spring/Summer 2012 fashion show during the Paris Fashion Week in October (CFP)

Sun Feifei, who began her career in Europe in 2010, has already climbed to No.24 in Models.com ranking. Born in 1989, the "Asian doll" is now the face of the Dsquared2 Spring/Summer collection and the perfume Be Delicious by DKNY.

In addition to these names, dozens of other Chinese models are now making their present felt in the Western fashion world.

Oriental beauty

"All these models are aligned with traditional ideals of Oriental beauty—oval faces, wafer-thin body shapes and a demure aura. This makes them particularly fascinating on the catwalk," said Yao.

What makes these models even more competitive than their predecessors is the internationally-oriented education they have received, said a modeling industry insider. Most of China's leading models grew up in wealthy families and have no difficulty meeting the professional standards set by the Western fashion circuit.

However, despite the inroads being made by Chinese models, their success remains a tender shoot of diversity in an industry that has always been dominated by white models.

The influx of oriental models into haute couture is seen as a result of the growing spending power of Chinese consumers. Sensing an opportunity to cash in on the Chinese market, major design houses have begun featuring a handful of Chinese models in fashion weeks as a bid to boost their sales in China.

According to state media reports, Chinese models made 296 appearances for major design houses this year.

China's market for luxury goods is expected to grow by 20 percent annually for the next 10 years, said a 2010 report compiled by the China Market Research Group (CMR), a Shanghai-based consulting company.

The size and promise of the Chinese market is changing perceptions in Western countries. "Luxury firms choose Chinese faces to represent them, to create emotional intimacy between their products and the Chinese consumers they are targeting," said Shaun Rein, Managing Director of CMR.

Being challenged

As a celebration of their sixth anniversary, Vogue China created a foldout cover starring six of China's models of the moment, including Du Juan, He Sui, Sun Feifei, Liu Wen, Xi Ming and Shu Pei, for its September issue.

While fashion publications in China have been enthusiastic about the success of these trailblazers, experts warned that these young models are still likely to face many challenges.

"Chinese models are always handicapped by their language skills. Most of them have never received any systematic language training," said Li Xiaobai, Chairman of the China New Silk Road Models Organization, China's first and largest modeling agency.

When Liu Wen made her way into the Victoria's Secret show in 2010, she introduced herself in English. Though not fluent, she won much praise for her efforts.

"I used to be afraid of speaking English while being interviewed," she said. "But being able to communicate with others in English makes me feel more confident about myself now."

Mo Wandan, another Chinese model, takes a translator wherever she goes. "My Western workmates all think I am super rich, but that is the only way I can communicate with others," Mo said.

Another obstacle is that successful Chinese models today all represent what Westerners call the "oriental look."

"They lack versatility," said Yi Lingna, Editor in Chief of fashion website onlylady.com. She also pointed out that there are few Chinese male models on the world stage.

"The lack of world-class Chinese clothing brands also prevents more Chinese models from entering the international fashion circuit," said Li. In France, many models are promoted by Pierre Cardin, one of the world's major clothing brands, onto the world fashion stage every year.

Meanwhile, Yao said that young women who aspire to a career on the catwalk will find competition for places on the international fashion stage become even fiercer.

Modeling agencies are confronting the problem of oversupply as the number of Chinese models has grown. "After all, the exotic charm of Chinese models is still used as the icing on the cake in the fashion world," Said Yao.

Domestic modeling agencies have been cooperating with their international counterparts such as DNA, IMG, Next, and Elite to promote Chinese models. But given the number of aspiring models and the demand of international agencies, the requirement for new models has risen.

"A mastery of English, a positive attitude, and some basic degree of social independence in addition to good looks are now prerequisites," said Yao.

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