Xinjiang Today
Tashikuergan: a county in the clouds
  ·  2025-05-06  ·   Source: NO.4 APRIL 20, 2025
Apricot trees in full bloom in Datong Township, Tashikuergan Tajik Autonomous County, in March 2023 (VCG)
Tashikuergan Tajik Autonomous County, one of China's westernmost counties, exudes an air of mystery and timelessness. As visitors set foot on this land, they are immediately captivated by the awe-inspiring natural landscapes that unfold before them: majestic snow-capped mountains, rocky semi-deserts, lush grasslands, meandering rivers, serene lakes, and vibrant wetlands.
A small village in the mountains of Tashikuergan on March 27 (XINHUA)

Situated in the southwestern part of Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region, Tashikuergan, also spelled Taxkorgan or Tashkurgan, lies at the eastern foothills of the Pamir Plateau. It is a considerable distance from major cities, being 1,756 km from Urumqi and 290 km from Kashi (Kashgar) City, capital of Kashi Prefecture, which administers Tashikuergan. Spanning a total area of 25,000 square km, Tashikuergan holds a unique position in China as the sole county bordering three countries. From north to south, these neighboring countries are Tajikistan, Afghanistan and Pakistan.

Encircled by a range of snow-capped mountains, Tashikuergan has an average altitude exceeding 4,000 meters. This high-altitude environment has earned local residents the evocative moniker of the People in the Sky.

Visitors pose at the Muztagata Glacier Park in Tashikuergan in May 2024 (VCG)

A picturesque drive 

Setting out on a trip from Kashi City to Tashikuergan, as you emerge from the Kongur Tunnel, a mesmerizing sight unfolds before your eyes.

More than 10 km of sand-covered mountains wind gracefully around the edges of White Sand Lake. Legend has it that this is the fabled Flowing Sand River described in Journey to the West, a Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) classic fantasy novel fictionalizing the westward quest of Buddhist monk Xuanzang and his three disciples, seeking scriptures. The lake water is so clear that every detail beneath the surface can be seen. Along the lakeshore, scattered among the pebbles, you can spot the desiccated remains of lake fish trapped there when the water level receded. Nearby, a flock of sheep cast a cursory glance at passing tourists before returning their attention to the sandy ground in search of sustenance.

As you press on, you reach Karakul Lake. Here, the towering peaks of the Pamir Plateau —the Kongur Peak, Kongur Tobe Peak and Muztagata Peak—stand sentinel, their bases almost touching the lake's edge and their snowy summits among the clouds. Their reflections dance upon the deep blue waters of the lake, creating a grand and tranquil scene.

 

A traditional dance performance in Tizinafu Township on March 23 (XINHUA)
A land of awe

Tashikuergan rightfully earns its reputation as the Land of Snow-Capped Mountains. Remarkably, four out of the world's 12 peaks above 8,000 meters exist within its borders. To the south looms Qogir, also known as Chhogori or K2, a colossal titan of the Karakorum Mountains. With an altitude of 8,611 meters, it claims the title of the world's second highest peak above sea level. In the north, Muztagata, dubbed the Father of Ice Mountains, rises to an elevation of 7,546 meters. These two iconic peaks face each other across the vast expanse of Tashikuergan, a constant reminder of the region's unique geographical significance.

Tashikuergan is named for a stone fortress in the north of the county town, with "tashi" meaning stone and "kuergan" meaning fortress in Turkic languages. The fortress, and the town it surrounded, were known historically in Chinese as Shitoucheng, or Stone City.A visit to Tashikuergan is incomplete without a pilgrimage to this Stone City. It was once the pivotal crossroads where the middle and southern routes of the fabled Silk Road converged. Archaeological excavations have unearthed a treasure trove of historical artifacts, including Tang Dynasty (618-907) coins, offering tantalizing glimpses into its rich past. Remarkably, the Stone City retained its strategic and functional importance well into the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911).Beneath the walls of the Stone City lies the idyllic Golden Grassland. The Tashikuergan River, like a silver ribbon, weaves its way through the landscape. It owes its existence to the melting glaciers in the distant mountains.

This river nurtures the ethnically diverse communities that call this land home. As the sun begins its descent each evening, a magical transformation takes place. The golden rays of sunlight bathe the grassland, imbuing it with a warm, radiant glow that turns the entire expanse into a sea of gold. It is this daily spectacle that has earned the area its name.

Tashikuergan is well known for the Hongqilafu (Khunjerab) Pass, the world's highest border crossing at 5,100 meters above sea level and China's overland gateway to the South Asian subcontinent. The pass is at the end of the China section of the Karakorum Highway. It connects Kashi with Islamabad, the capital of Pakistan, which shares a border with China in the Karakorum Mountains.

The Hongqilafu Airport in May 2022 (XINHUA)

Tashikuergan is also home to China's westernmost airport. The Hongqilafu Airport opened in 2022 at an altitude of about 3,200 meters. In 2024, its passenger throughput was 27,898, up 76.7 percent year on year, ranking 247th among China's 263 airports, according to the Civil Aviation Administration of China.

With breathtaking landscape, colorful culture and improved transportation, Tashikuergan is a gem waiting to be explored.

Comments to yanwei@cicgamericas.com 

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