Every day, Yerbolson Haharman, dressed in traditional Kazak attire, assumes his role as a guide at a century-old house, which exhibits the daily life of locals in the old days in Hemu Village in Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region.

Filled with a sense of pride and purpose, he enthusiastically introduces the old dwelling of local Tuvan people to visitors. After that, he escorts them a short distance away to a performance hall. In that space, he transforms from guide to lead vocalist of the Horseshoe Band, masterfully playing the dombra, a plucked string musical instrument of the Kazak ethnic group.

This ensemble, consisting of four members from three distinct ethnic groups, infuses Tuvan folk songs and melodies with new vitality. As the visitors indulge in the warmth of milk tea, the atmosphere becomes electrified with jubilant songs and dances, in which audience members are welcome to participate.

The melodic heritage

Born in 1994 in Hemu Village, Yerbolson is a Kazak whose roots deeply intertwine with the tradition of his hometown. Situated on the shore of Kanas Lake, Hemu Village stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of the Tuvan people, one of the oldest nomadic groups in north China.

This community has preserved its way of life for nearly four centuries, residing in log cabins, mastering equestrian as well as engaging in skiing, traditional singing and dancing. Hemu, as one of the Tuvan people's three major settlements, is a living museum where traditional wooden houses, set against the vivid tableau of blue skies and white clouds, seem to leap straight out of a fairy tale.

During the performance, Yerbolson also fascinates audiences with his mastery of the suer. This unique wind instrument, crafted from a local plant stem found only in the Altai Mountains, produces uniquely captivating sounds. With its oboe-like appearance and 50-cm length, it is a symbol of the region's rich musical heritage.

The band's performances are further enriched by Tuvan throat singing or höömii, an indigenous technique that allows the creation of a dual vocal line. Characterized by a deep, resonant undertone, this unique singing style adds a profound depth to the music.

Since his childhood, Yerbolson has been immersed in the art of playing the dombra; and for the past 14 years, he has also been practicing playing the suer and throat singing. Before the formation of the Horseshoe Band, he was part of other musical groups, albeit with changing members. It was in 2018 that the band was officially named the Horseshoe Band. Now, they entertain three to four groups of tourists each day and are planning to release their own album.

Echoes of Altay

Their good friends, the Handega Band, are located within the breathtaking Kanas Scenic Area, about an hour away from Hemu Village. Since their formation in 2018, the Handega Band has been dedicated to exploring world music rooted in Altay's ethnic cultures.

Now, the band, with four members, graces the tourist homestay areas of the scenic area with daily performances, captivating visitors and steadily building a reputation that extends beyond the boundaries of Kanas. In the past year, in addition to local performances, the band also completed a national tour spanning several months.

Their performance venue in Kanas is designed like a ger, decorated with Tuvan hunting and herding tools and everyday items. They begin by introducing Tuvan culture and some of the main tools used by the Tuvan people, serving guests hot milk tea and fermented mare's milk before starting their performance.

Suer playing and throat singing are also elements of their music. Besides singing in their own language, they perform songs in standard Chinese. After the performances, they invite guests outside to a small clearing, where they teach them simple Tuvan dance moves and dance together. This immersive experience not only showcases the rich cultural heritage of the Tuvan people, but also bridges the gap between different cultures through the universal language of music and dance.

In a recent venture, two members of the Handega Band have initiated a new musical project, forming a rock band with other musicians who seek to merge the traditional ethnic music of Altay with the vibrant energy of rock.

Marmot Band, formed in 2009 in Altay, has gone further and already achieved recognition far beyond their origins. Since its inception, the band has been dedicated to unearthing, cataloging and preserving the indigenous music that forms the soul of their heritage.

Over the course of eight years, they have embarked on a journey to visit folk artists, undertaking the crucial task of documenting musical

traditions teetering on the edge of oblivion; and more importantly, rejuvenating and performing these vanishing sounds.

In doing so, they have breathed new life into the melodies of folk songs and ancient instruments passed down across generations. For them, the music of Altay is as untamed and majestic as its natural landscapes, brimming with an unrefined and wild beauty. This music, a harmonious blend of diverse ethnic and cultural elements, has matured into a distinctive musical genre.

In their mission to disseminate ethnic music, they have ventured down various paths, including staging performances in the Kanas Scenic Area, acquainting tourists with Tuvan traditions, and presenting other aspects of the rich tapestry of grassland culture to audience members from home and abroad.

Danbur, the band's lead vocalist, acknowledges the challenges in promoting indigenous music in a world overwhelmed with pop culture. "We are aware that indigenous music may not reach the widespread acclaim of pop music," he said. "Many things fade away with the changing times, but we cannot lose what our ancestors left us. Some endeavors are simply worth pursuing."

Danbur also said that whenever they tour cities, it doesn't take long before they seek out nature, craving the respite offered by mountains and rivers. "The bustling city life, with its towering buildings and cars, is suffocating to us," he said. For them, their music is rooted deeply in the wild and unspoiled beauty that surrounds them and empowered by the natural world. 

(Print edition title: Rhythms of Altay)

Copyedited by G.P. Wilson

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