In Yangzhou, a prefecture-level city next to Nanjing in Jiangsu Province, young people are flocking to a local traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) hospital, not for medical care, but for bread. The hospital has been gaining local fame since early April, when it launched a unique series of breads infused with Chinese medicinal herbs.

The herbal bread series, developed by Yangzhou Hospital of TCM's Preventive Treatment Center, blends culinary innovation with wellness culture and has captivated health-conscious youth and food enthusiasts alike.

Herbs in the oven

Zhao Wei, deputy director of the center and the mastermind behind the project, explained that the idea arose from observing a growing demand among young people for healthier lifestyles and foods that address suboptimal health conditions.

"These breads cater to the rising trend of wellness-focused diets, particularly for those experiencing issues like fatigue, weak immunity or imbalances in bodily systems. They align with TCM's philosophy of 'preventive treatment'—tackling health issues before they manifest," he told local newspaper Yangzhou Daily.

Zhao and his team spent months researching and adapting ancient formulas. Ingredients like Chinese angelica root, lotus seeds and dried orange peel were carefully selected for their properties to boost energy and improve circulation. "TCM dietary therapy is a vital part of preventive healthcare. By making ancient wisdom accessible and delicious, we hope to inspire younger generations to embrace holistic wellness," he said.

To perfect the recipes, the team experimented with methods like boiling herbs into liquid blends for dough or grinding them into powders for low-temperature baking. After multiple trials, they debuted six varieties of bread, priced at an average of 10 yuan ($1.40) apiece.

Initially launched as a limited trial, the breads were available daily between 4:00 p.m. and 6:30 p.m. Their subtle herbal aroma and earthy undertones earned praise from customers, who described the flavors as "comforting and wholesome." Demand surged rapidly, with snaking lines forming before sales began, as eager buyers arrived early, trying to secure a purchase.

To curb excess consumption, the hospital restricted purchases to one piece per variety per person. Despite this, daily stocks vanished within minutes. In response to the frenzy, the hospital announced plans on May 11 to expand operations: opening a dedicated street-side storefront, extending sales hours, lifting the purchase limits to better serve demand and introducing five new varieties of breads and pastries.

Integrating TCM into baked goods is not entirely new. In 2019, Tong Ren Tang—a Beijing-based TCM brand with a history of over 300 years—ventured into the bakery business through its wellness-focused sub-brand Zhima Health. The brand gained attention for its fusion of herbal ingredients into breads, lattes and milk teas, such as its goji berry latte.

In 2020, Zhang Zhongjing Pharmacy, a TCM pharmacy in Zhengzhou, Henan Province, central China, launched its trendy bakery line Zhongjing Life, while Fang Hui Chun Tang, a flagship TCM pharmacy in Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province, east China, debuted a TCM-inspired bakery and tea shop in 2021, which became a local social media hotspot with an average spend of 30 yuan ($4) per customer.

Despite their initial buzz, the operational performance of TCM-infused bakeries has largely fallen short of projections. Take Zhima Health as an example: In 2020, the brand aimed to open 300 stores in Beijing and 50 flagship outlets in first-tier cities nationwide. Yet, these targets remain unmet years later.

Xu Xuanmin, a 28-year-old Beijing resident, typifies the consumers' dampening enthusiasm. She visited a Zhima Health outlet shortly after its launch, lured by the novelty of items like the goji berry latte. "It felt fun at first, but I rarely returned," she told Beijing Review. "The coffee was pricier than offerings in regular cafés, and the location wasn't convenient for my daily life."

A Zhima Health nutritionist, speaking to Yicai, a Shanghai-based financial outlet, revealed that the brand's profit margins per cup of coffee are slim due to two key factors: the intricate research and development process, which requires collaboration among TCM practitioners, nutritionists and baristas to balance herbal efficacy and flavor, and the elevated costs of premium ingredients like black goji berries and motherwort herb, which push prices higher than those of mainstream competitors.

For many like Xu, these products cater less to tangible wellness and more to a psychological craving for good health—a hallmark of China's "punk health preservation" trend, an ironic lifestyle where young people pair unhealthy habits with symbolic wellness gestures, such as chugging chrysanthemum tea to "detox" after a night of heavy drinking or sipping red date-infused oatmeal to "counteract" a week of takeout meals. As Xu admitted, "An angelica-infused bread won't cure my hair loss, but eating it during overtime tricks my brain into thinking I'm self-caring."

Balanced tones

The fusion between TCM ingredients and food is shaped by China's regulatory landscape. While the Food Safety Law prohibits adding pharmaceuticals to food, it permits dual-use substances recognized as both edible and medicinal. Updated guidelines in 2021 established a dynamic list of over 100 approved ingredients, including hawthorn, Chinese yam and cassia seed, to ensure safe innovation.

Hu Hefeng, a certified medicinal chef, underscored the complexity of integrating TCM with food. "This isn't about haphazardly adding herbs to dishes," he told newspaper People's Daily. "It demands meticulous control over ingredient ratios, flavor harmony, and even visual appeal—all requiring specialized expertise."

"From a TCM perspective, these innovative products do carry certain wellness merits—but their effects should not be overstated," Cheng Kai, a professor at the Beijing University of Chinese Medicine, told newspaper Beijing Daily.

He noted that factors like the quality, dosage and preparation of herbal ingredients are often compromised in mass production, resulting in weaker therapeutic effects, which makes such products inadequate substitutes for medical treatment. For instance, in TCM breads, predominantly made of flour, medicinal components act as subtle flavor enhancers rather than active remedies.

Cheng also drew attention to the trend's cultural significance. "The popularity of TCM breads signals young people's growing connection to traditional wellness principles, fostering broader curiosity about TCM—a promising shift," he said.

He advised consumers in need of medical help to consult TCM practitioners for personalized guidance, as "diagnosis and tailored treatment remain core to the TCM philosophy."

Ultimately, the sustainability of TCM-infused foods lies in balancing cultural preservation with scientific rigor, he said.

Copyedited by G.P. Wilson

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