The newly revamped public space of Zhonglouwan Hutong (COURTESY PHOTO) 

Even after several months, Jin Guilian, a resident of Beijing, still became excited when recalling the moment she received the key to her new apartment this May. “I had never imagined that I can live in a new residence in the heart of Xicheng District!” Her home in Building 8, Huapichang Hutong has undergone a remarkable transformation, turning from an old, dilapidated, and dirty building into a brand-new one.  

Located in Xinjiekou Street, Xicheng District of Beijing, the building was built in the 1970s and suffered from aging infrastructure and peeling exterior walls. 

In July 2020, Beijing announced a plan to renovate dilapidated buildings through rebuilding, renovation, or appropriate expansions. 

The government took the initiative to identify needs through site visits, field surveys, and forums, ensuring tailored solutions for each household. For households facing financial difficulties in covering temporary relocation expenses, the city government coordinated with the project implementing units to provide rental housing. The residents moved out while the building was renovated then returned to their original apartments. 

Jin said that her home is larger after its transformation, and is more comfortable and convenient to live in. 

Amidst the hustle and bustle, the hutongs lined up with buildings with red walls and gray tiles set the scene for the lives of Beijing’s old city residents. With the renovation of houses, old streets, and hutongs to conserve and revitalize Beijing’s old city, the quality of life for residents has also improved. 

Elderly residents of Zhonglouwan Hutong relax at the community's  courtyard-style elderly care center on October 12 （XINHUA） 

The unchanging skyline 

Zhonglouwan (literally Bell Tower Bay) Hutong, located at the northern terminus of Beijing’s Central Axis, a building ensemble exhibiting the ideal order of the Chinese Capital, is home to Fan Laiyou. At 69, Fan has lived there all his life. He has never liked his courtyard as much as he does now. He no longer needs to worry about the leaking when it rains; the gardens outside his door are filled with jasmine, and Chinese roses and Beijing’s iconic Bell Tower and Drum Tower are visible, set against the clear sky above. 

While most of Beijing’s hutong alleyways run east-west, Zhonglouwan Hutong, named for its harbor-like spatial layout, is a rare north-south oriented hutong in Beijing. 

Fan is a resident of No. 90 courtyard in this hutong. “My family has lived in this courtyard since my grandfather’s generation.” However, the hutong and courtyard of the past were vastly different from the present. 

The courtyard was once crowded with tenement housing occupied by over 20 households. During the rainy season, waterlogging was severe, and sandbags were often piled up in the already crowded courtyard to block rainwater. Inside the rooms, leaks and damage were common; while outside, mud and water accumulated, making rainy days particularly difficult. 

Outside the courtyard, the hutong’s condition was equally unsatisfactory. Zhonglouwan Hutong retains a strong sense of Beijing’s charm and carries the nostalgia of local residents. However, as history progressed and residents’ needs diversified, issues such as potholes, waterlogging, a tangle of overhead wires, and inadequate barrier-free facilities gradually emerged there, troubling residents. 

From 2018 onwards, with the launch of voluntary relocation and protective renovation projects, this hutong has seen environmental improvement. Fan has witnessed these changes, as has Zhang Zhe. As a designer at the Beijing Tsinghua Tongheng Urban Planning and Design Institute, Zhang was deeply involved in these projects. 

Zhonglouwan Hutong sits on the border of Dongcheng and Xicheng districts and during the renovation process, Dongcheng District focused on the protective renovation of cultural relics and historic sites, including courtyards vacated through voluntary relocation. Zhang and his colleague created a specific plan for each courtyard, renovating courtyard walls and houses, removing illegal structures, and updating infrastructure. 

The entire hutong has also been transformed. 

Zhang deeply understands the nostalgia for old Beijing. In seven years of working on the conservation and renewal of the old city, he has increasingly realized that to retain the city’s memory, the renewal of the old city should focus on maintaining traditional features. 

“The renovation of Zhonglouwan Hutong was carried out in phases. The first three years laid the foundation and were more engineering-focused. Later, we noticed that the old city seemed too ‘new,’ he said, “So in the second three years, we paid more attention to restoring the hutong’s unique character and its human touch. We communicated with residents about their needs and discussed how to make the courtyards more charming,” Zhang said. “Now, we have entered the third phase, exploring how to make hutong life more future-oriented.” 

The renovation of hutongs is now a collaborative process, involving discussions with residents on everything from house designs to small details like steps and handrails. “For example, when Fan wanted to plant grapes, we designed a grape trellis based on the layout of his courtyard,” Zhang told Beijing Review. 

“My home has undergone several renovations, and I’ve watched it transform step by step into its current state with gray tiles, red windows, and an antique charm,” Fan said. Nowadays, he often invites friends to chat and drink tea in the courtyard, where they can look up and see the Bell Tower and Drum Tower. When the lights come on at night, “it’s even more breathtaking.” 

Having lived in that courtyard and in that hutong his entire life, Fan sees the human-centric approach to restoration as essential. “We hutong residents are part of the local culture and the fabric of Beijing. Tourists from all over the world come here, and I’m always happy to share my stories about the courtyard and the hutong with them,” he said. 

New life in the old streets 

Urban renewal is not only about improving residents’ quality of life but also about integrating with new lifestyles and entertainment. 

Near the East Second Ring Road in Beijing, adjacent to the 400-year-old glazed archway of Dongyue Temple, a colorful, irregular open space stands out from the original layout of Chaowai Street. With its dark gray facade, vibrant urban murals, and fashionable large curved LED screens, this is THE BOX Chaowai--the first commercial space born out of the Chaowai Street renewal project. The urban renewal of Chaowai Street officially began in 2021. 

“The former Kuntai Mall was transformed into THE BOX A, catering to the needs of young people by creating unique entertainment spaces such as a rooftop basketball court, a skateboard park and an outdoor theater, thus revitalizing the night economy,” said Li Li, Deputy General Manager of Yingzhan Beijing, the investor and management party ofthe THE BOX Chaowai project. 

From the outside, small blocks form the facade of the building, with a fashionable large screen that is very eye-catching. “The abundance of screens is a distinctive feature of THE BOX, making it especially suitable for events like premieres and brand launches,” Li said. 

“Since the project’s launch, more young people have been attracted to the area. Their sense of fashion and artistic flair have injected new vitality into the entire neighborhood,” Li told Beijing Review. 

Located here is Mars pet supermarket, the largest in Beijing, designed with Mars-themed elements and housing over 100 domestic and international pet product brands. The rooftop garden, named Chaowai Sky, provides a daytime retreat for young people and regularly hosts urban sports events, such as NBA stars’ China tours. 

Walking around the periphery of THE BOX A, one can see the outdoor skateboarding park and a street of bars. “The skateboarding park is currently open to the public free of charge. The bar street operates from 3 p.m. to midnight and is bustling at night, serving as the central hub for THE BOX’s nightlife,” said Li. 

A few hundred meters east of THE BOX A lies the newly opened THE BOX B. “THE BOX B is more focused on serving the 25-35 age group, emphasizing enhanced customer experience and community interaction, making it the premier destination for quality living, outdoor sports, and fashion trends,” the manager concluded. 

Printed edition title: Brideshead Revisited 

Copyedited by G.P. Wilson  

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